Within IRDL, Loren Morgillo explored the impact of defects on linen fibers in varied environments.
Loren Morgillo, chercheur·e au sein de IRDL (Institut National Polytechnique de Bretagne).
Thèse soutenue en 2025 à l'école doctorale École doctorale Sciences Pour l'Ingénieur (Lorient ; 2022-....).
Référencée dans le réseau ABES/STAR, cette thèse répond aux critères de rigueur de l'enseignement supérieur français.
Linen, a plant with multiple uses, is often seen as an ecological alternative for the textile industry. Indeed, its natural properties and its ability to grow without pesticides make it an increasingly popular choice in a context where sustainability is at the heart of concerns. However, its optimal exploitation is hindered by various challenges, notably the management of defects in its fibers. Loren Morgillo's thesis highlights these issues by focusing on kink-bands, defects that affect the mechanical properties of the fibers. These defects, often overlooked in production processes, can have significant consequences on the durability and performance of linen textile products, raising questions about the quality and reliability of linen textiles in the market.
The results of this research are revealing and provide a valuable contribution to the understanding of this material. The quantification of anas, these by-products from scutching, is essential to optimize the linen value chain. Indeed, these anas, often considered waste, could be valorized in other applications, such as the manufacture of composites or insulating materials. By developing new analytical methods, Morgillo offers valuable tools for the industry, allowing not only the assessment of fiber quality but also the improvement of production processes.
Moreover, the multi-scale analysis of kink-bands allows for a better understanding of their impact on the mechanical properties of the fibers. This raises crucial questions: how do these defects influence the durability of textile products? What solutions can be implemented to minimize their impact? For example, specific treatments or adapted weaving techniques could potentially mitigate the harmful effects of kink-bands, thereby enhancing the strength of linen textiles.
The exploration of archaeological linen samples using synchrotron micro-tomography also opens a historical perspective on the durability of fibers. This approach allows for tracing the use of linen through the ages, offering insights into the cultivation and processing methods that may have influenced fiber quality. Hygroscopic tests, on the other hand, reveal the behavior of kink-bands under different humidity conditions, a determining factor for the use of linen in varied environments. In West Africa, for instance, where climatic conditions can be very changeable, understanding how these fibers react to humidity is essential to ensure their performance in local textile applications.
These works underscore the importance of a systematic approach to understanding the defects of linen fibers. By optimizing their performance, it is possible to strengthen linen's position in the textile market while addressing current environmental challenges. Decision-makers must therefore consider how to integrate this knowledge into industrial practices. This could involve training for producers and processors to raise awareness of the importance of fiber quality and the impact of defects on finished products.
In summary, Morgillo's research is not limited to a simple technical analysis. It paves the way for a broader reflection on the future of linen in the textile and composite industry. The challenges are numerous, but the opportunities are just as abundant. A better understanding of fiber defects could transform linen into an even more competitive and sustainable material. By integrating this new knowledge, the textile industry could not only improve the quality of its products but also contribute to a more sustainable future, where linen could play a central role in the transition to more environmentally friendly practices.
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Sources et accès
Loren Morgillo. Quantification and impact of defects on the structure and performance of textile flax fibres incontrasting environments. Materials. Université de Bretagne Sud, 2025. English. ⟨NNT : 2025LORIS647⟩. ⟨tel-05092337⟩